The ultimate guide to surfing and working in Popoyo, Nicaragua
Credit: @pato.surfphoto
Although I’m a fan of slow travel, it’s rare that I stay in the same place for more than a week. But when I arrived in Popoyo, a laid-back beach town on Nicaragua’s Pacific coast, it took me a whole month to leave. From the moment I arrived, I felt an instant sense of peace, and I wasn’t alone. Almost everyone I met ended up extending their stay.
If you're not into surfing or working remotely, Popoyo might not be the place for a long stay – but that doesn't mean you shouldn't visit. Here there are killer sunsets every night, long beautiful sandy beaches, relaxed days spent on the sand and a slower pace of life to experience.
There’s something nourishing about spending time in Popoyo and it's a place many people stop off to recharge if they’re enjoying a longer trip.
The beaches in Popoyo are amazing and there are hardly any people there.
Where is Popoyo?
Popoyo is a small beach town on Nicaragua’s Pacific side, not far from the border with Costa Rica. The town is loosely divided into two areas: Popoyo and Guasacate which both have incredible, long, sandy beaches which are divided by a small river. In between the two when travelling by road is Las Salinas de Nagualapa, a town that takes its name from the salt flats that form at the mouth of the Nagualapa River.
Some describe Popoyo as off the beaten track, but whilst it’s quiet, it’s far from undiscovered. Plenty of travellers make their way here each year, and with Nicaragua’s growing popularity, that number is only set to rise.
A new road currently under construction will soon connect the entirety of Nicaragua’s Pacific coast, making Popoyo more accessible than ever. I visited in January 2025, and even as I write this, the transformation is underway.
You can find Popoyo on Nicaragua’s Pacific coast, not far from the border with Costa Rica.
Why visit Popoyo?
If you're seeking deep cultural immersion, Popoyo might not be the ideal destination. Over the years, more tourists have discovered the area, and land is rapidly being bought up by North American and European investors. Before long, it may resemble yet another gentrified beach town.
That said, if you're looking for a place to unwind, surf, or work remotely in a stunning coastal setting, Popoyo is worth considering. It offers a slower pace of life, breathtaking sunsets, and a natural beauty that still feels untouched for the time being.
The sunsets over the Pacific Ocean are another great reason to visit Popoyo.
Who lives in Popoyo?
In recent years more and more foreigners have been moving to the town, so it’s not the best place to meet Nicaraguan people. However, the Nicaraguans I did meet in Popoyo seemed to be happy with the opportunities that come with tourism.
Tourism plays a vital role in supporting the communities of Popoyo and the surrounding areas, providing much-needed economic stability after decades of hardship. The town is still recovering from the financial impact of Nicaragua’s civil unrest in 2018, and it also endured near-total devastation from a tsunami in 1992.
The best way to benefit the local community is to make a conscious effort to spend your money in Nicaraguan-owned businesses.
For affordable, basic accommodation La Tica is a Nicaraguan owned hostel
in Popoyo with rooms for as little as 10 USD per night.
Surf in Popoyo
Nicknamed the "gem in Nicaragua’s surfing crown," Popoyo is home to some of the best waves in the country. Its consistently good surf conditions are partly thanks to Lake Managua, located 50 miles inland, which creates a unique wind funnel effect, delivering over 300 days of offshore winds each year.
However, Popoyo's surf varies dramatically by season, making timing an important factor depending on your experience level.
For advanced surfers, the wet season (May to October) brings bigger swells and more powerful waves.
For beginner and intermediate surfers, the dry season (November to April) is ideal, with smaller, more manageable waves.
Beginner’s Bay on a small day in Popoyo.
The best surf spots in Popoyo
Since I visited Popoyo in January, this guide focuses primarily on beginner and intermediate-friendly surf spots.
Playa Santana – A fun and punchy beach break, best suited for intermediate surfers looking to practice faster take-offs and ride smaller barrels. Not recommended for beginners.
Beginner’s Bay – The go-to spot for first-timers, with board rentals available just above the beach. The best time to surf here is just after low tide. Choose between the reef on the left or the bay to the right. It can get crowded, but the atmosphere is friendly and welcoming.
Popoyo Main Break – Ideal for intermediate surfers who understand surf etiquette and safety. This break works best between low and mid tide. At high tide, the waves are smaller and more beginner-friendly, whilst at low tide, expect a more competitive crowd chasing both lefts and rights.
Outer Reef – This break doesn’t work well in the dry season, but during the wet season, it comes alive with bigger swells. Strictly for experienced surfers – definitely not beginner-friendly.
Playa Gavilan – Located about a 20-minute drive from Popoyo, this A-frame wave is a great option for intermediate surfers with access to a car or moto. Beginners should go with a surf school to avoid getting in the way of more experienced surfers.
Nicaragua is known for its consistent offshore winds. Credit: @pato.surfphoto
Popoyo Surf Camp
If you're serious about learning to surf, I highly recommend Popoyo Surf Camp. Located on the Guasacate side of town, the instructors genuinely care about their students’ progression. This is where I finally started to improve and feel I was making progress in my surfing.
If you're just looking to try surfing for fun, you’ll find plenty of surf schools near Beginner’s Bay and above the main break. Instructors there can push you into waves and give you a few tips. However, if you’re committed to improving, spending a week or two at Popoyo Surf Camp will give you structured lessons, guidance, and access to a variety of surf spots.
Joining a surf camp you can get boat access to other waves. Credit: @pato.surfphoto
Remote working in Popoyo
If you’re planning to work remotely in Popoyo, the best place for remote work is Waves + Wifi, located on the Guasacate side of town. They are the only place in town to offer a reliable, 24-hour internet connection backed up by solar power, making it the most dependable spot to get work done. You can either work from their café or pay for access to their co-working space, which in 2025 was a very reasonable $40 per week.
Initially, I tried working from hostels, however there are frequent (often daily) power cuts in the area which makes it difficult to get things done. I eventually relocated to Guasacate to take advantage of Waves + Wifi.
At Waves + Wifi there is a co-working space, a café and 24 hour reliable Wifi.
Getting around in Popoyo
Popoyo is spread out, with two areas separated by a river. At low tide, you can easily cross on foot, but at high tide, you'll need to swim. The walk from Playa Popoyo on the eastern side to Guasacate spans about 4 km along the beach, and it's even longer by road.
The best way to get around is by hiring a moto, most of which come with surfboard racks. This not only makes exploring easier but also gives you access to more surf spots, shops, restaurants, and an ATM.
When you arrive, ask your accommodation for the best place to hire a moto. Typically the price is around $15 USD per day, but you should be able to negotiate a discount if renting for over a week.
There’s also the option to hitchhike, which I found very easy in Popoyo, though I would only do this in the daytime.
Pay attention to tide times in Popoyo, not only for the surf, but also for crossing the river.
How to get to Popoyo
First, travel to Rivas, the main transit hub for reaching Popoyo. From there, you can either:
Take a taxi – The most popular option, costing around $30 to Popoyo.
Ride a chicken bus – A cheaper but slower option, with routes to Playa Popoyo or Playa Guasacate, depending on where you’re staying.
To reach Rivas, you can:
Take a shuttle or taxi from major cities.
Ride a chicken bus from Managua, Granada, San Juan del Sur, or San Jorge if coming from Ometepe.
Travel by bus from San José, Costa Rica, which is how I arrived.
New roads are being built, which will make Popoyo even easier to get to in the future.
Should I stay in Popoyo or Guasacate?
During my month in Popoyo, I spent the first half in Popoyo and the second part in Guasacate. There are pros to both sides, though ultimately I preferred Guasacate.
Popoyo has a lot of French-owned businesses and whilst everyone is very friendly, you’re more likely to learn French there than Spanish. However, it is closer to beginner’s bay and Popoyo main break is also on this side of the river.
Guasacate has more of a mix of locals and tourists living there, though it’s still touristic. There are more restaurants to choose from and you have easier access to surf camps and the co-working space at Waves + Wifi.
Therefore, if you’re working I’d recommend Guasacate and if not, I’d recommend trying both sides for a few days. Both have absolutely beautiful beaches and surf.
I moved to the Guasacate side of Popoyo after finding Waves + Wifi and Popoyo Surf Camp.
Useful information when in Popoyo
Here are a few additional useful pieces of information to know before you head to Popoyo:
Bring cash with you. Most businesses don’t accept cards. Those that do charge an 8% fee. There is an ATM in Las Salinas, but unless you have a moto this is a long, hot walk away from where you will be staying.
Supermarkets aren’t the cheapest. But, you can still save a little bit of money by eating in. There are supermarkets on both sides of the river, with Pues Dale’s in Popoyo being the cheapest.
Keep an ear out for the food truck. Every day a food truck drives through both sides of the town selling fresh fruit and veg. It’s cheaper and better quality than the supermarkets and you’ll be able to hear them shouting when they’re near.
Popoyo delivery can help you to move about the town. Send them a Whatsapp and they will send a moto to pick up and deliver things (including you) – which is much cheaper than a taxi.
You can buy fresh fruit and vegetables from the food truck each day in Popoyo.
Other things to do in Popoyo
Beyond surfing and relaxing, here are a few other things to enjoy in Popoyo:
Yoga – Classes are available at MagRock, Surf 99, Waves + Wifi, and more.
Hot springs – If you have transportation, visit Thermas Las Salinas to soak sore muscles.
Tidal pools – At low tide, explore the natural pools at the far end of Guasacate Beach.
Local food – While Popoyo has plenty of restaurants, don’t miss out on the local spots for authentic meals at better prices while directly supporting the community.
Watch my YouTube video about cycling around Ometepe when I left Popoyo – it was amazing!
Conclusion
Popoyo is one of those rare places that draws people in and makes them stay longer than planned. Whether you're here to surf in warm waters, work remotely with ocean views, or simply slow down and enjoy the beach, there's something undeniably special about this little Nicaraguan town.
Whilst development and tourism are likely to change the area, Popoyo still offers a unique blend of natural beauty, tranquility, and adventure. The surf is consistent, the sunsets are stunning, and the laid-back atmosphere is perfect for recharging.
If you're looking for a place to disconnect from the chaos of daily life while still having enough infrastructure to work or play, Popoyo might just be your next favourite destination.
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